Shroud Replacement

Sail Repair/Replace

Canvas Replacement

Technology Updates

Running Rigging

Sheaves and Blocks

Bottom Paint

Life Raft Certification

Repairing Leaks

Lifeline Replacement

Painting

Hopefully, the things

listed on this page

won't have to be

Bedrooms Maintenance

I use the term "Painful Maintenance" to describe things that must be done from time to time that are either expensive or time-consuming (or, as is often the case, a combination of both).  Fortunately, these things shouldn't have to be done very often.  

Shroud Replacement 

Shrouds are the steal wires that secure the mast to the hull of a sailboat.  There are two basic types of shrouds; braided steel or solid.  Most cruising boats have braided steel shrouds, but it’s not uncommon to find solid steel on racing boats.  Shrouds have a certain lifespan, the length of which is very much open to debate.  If you sail regularly in heavy conditions, I’ve been told that shrouds will only last for five years or so before they need to be replaced.  I’ve also been told that they should last for ten years in the same conditions!  At this point, I’m not the person to be offering advise on shroud replacement.  True, they are vital to Candide’s performance, but they’ve never given me a problem.  I have yet to have one of them break.  For all I know, they’re the original shrouds supplied on Candide when she was new some 17 years ago! 

However, before I leave on an around-the-world voyage, I’ll definitely replace them!  It will cost about $1,500 if I do the work myself. 

Consequences of Laziness – If your shrouds are very old, and they’re put under a lot of stress because you’re sailing in strong winds, there’s a chance that one or more of them will break.  This could be disastrous, because your remaining shrouds will have to take up the slack.  This could lead to additional shrouds breaking.  If enough shrouds break, your mast may come down!  This is guaranteed to ruin your day.  

So far, these are the only instruments that I've had to repair or replace aboard Candide.  The next thing that needs repairs is the radar.  Right now, it won't power on.  Since I don't use it very often anyway, it's not on my list of priorities to have fixed.  

Running Rigging

A landlubber would likely refer to the "running rigging" on a sailboat as "a bunch of ropes."  A sailor, though, cringes at this term.  There are no "ropes" aboard Candide.  There are lines, sheets, and halyards that are made from material remarkably similar (identical, in a lot of cases) to "ropes" that one may find around the house.  But don't call them that!  Here's a quick break-down of the running rigging found aboard Candide:

So now you know all about the various running rigging aboard Candide.  Why do I list them in the "painful" section on boat maintenance?  Well, because these lines get old, frayed, and will eventually break under strain.  Because there are so many of them (18 on Candide), it can be an expensive proposition to replace them as they wear out.  Last year, I replaced the jib sheets.  Cost was $120.00.  This year, I replaced the topping lift ($75.00).

If I had to replace all of the running rigging at once, I estimate a total cost of $1,200 - $1,400.  Fortunately, it's very unlikely that all of my rigging would need replacement at one time.  So, I spend an average of $100 a year or so on new lines.

Keep in mind that smaller boats, especially those that won't be doing a lot of offshore sailing, can get by with smaller diameter lines.  This means that such boats will have smaller replacement costs than the lines aboard Candide.

Consequences of Laziness – Eventually, your running rigging will become frayed and one day fail as a sheet or halyard breaks.  This could be catastrophic if you're at the top of the mast supported by a halyard.  A fall of fifty feet from the top of the mast to the deck below will cause bruises and swelling at a minimum.  More likely, you'll break several bones and have internal hemorrhaging.  Burial at sea will most likely follow as your dead body becomes bloated and foul-smelling beyond the crew's tolerance.  Never trust your life to an old halyard!

Sheaves and Blocks 

Sheaves (pronounced "shivs") and blocks are part of the boat's running rigging.  "Blocks" are the nautical term for "pulley," while "sheaves" are the part of a pulley that consist of a wheel with a grooved rim to hold the line in place.  

Candide, as a quasi-traditional sailboat, has wooden blocks (approximately 10 of them).  Fortunately, I've never had to replace one.  I did, however, find a German company that makes traditional wooden blocks and found that they'd cost about $90 each to replace.  I have spare blocks on board, and eventually, they'll be used to replace ones above deck that have become worn out beyond repair.  

The sheaves on Candide, though, are a different story.  In 1999, I had to replace all 7 sheaves located within the mainsail boom.  The originals were made from plastic (oh, sure, they aren't called "plastic" by the manufacturer, but that's what they are).  After years of exposure to the sun's UV rays, they started to crack and eventually crumbled apart.

I was fortunate to find appropriately sized sheaves at West Marine, but they were $28 each ($196 to replace all 7)!!!  I took one of the sheaves that was in fairly good condition to a machine shop and asked if they could make new ones from aluminum.  "No problem!" they said.  Not only did they make perfectly-fitting new sheaves from aluminum, but they also added bronze bushings for added strength.  Best of all, I was only charged $11 per sheave, for a total cost of $77.  Quite a bit cheaper than West Marine!  Who ever thought that custom-made boat parts would be cheaper than off-the-shelf products from West Marine?  Sometimes, it pays to shop around!

Consequences of Laziness – Blocks and sheaves provide manageable purchase on lines that would otherwise be impossible for a normal person to handle.  If you let them go, you may not be able to perform normal tasks like trimming sails.  

Bottom Paint

As described elsewhere on this site, any boat that stays in the water will eventually attract barnacles and other growth on the bottom.  To counteract this problem, special toxic paint is applied under the waterline that will either kill growth before it attaches to the boat, or allow growth and paint to "flake off" when the boat is underway.  Your marina will tell you that bottom paint should be applied once a year.  I generally wait 18 months between bottom jobs.  The amount of time you wait will depend on how much growth accumulates in your area (water temperature and salt content are big variables in bottom growth), and your tolerance for having a slow-moving boat (growth below the waterline will definitely slow your boat down).

Getting a bottom job is a pretty neat experience.  First, you'll have to find a marina that has a "travel lift" capable of hauling your boat out of the water.  The travel lift will have to be wide enough to accommodate the boat's beam (a BIG problem if you own a catamaran or other multi-hull boat), and weight.  Generally, the travel lift will already be in place when you arrive.  This is because the lift will use huge straps to lift your boat out of the water...and these straps will need to be in place when you pull into the slip.  Don't worry, though.  The straps will be underwater (most likely resting on the bottom) and won't interfere with your boat's movement.  

Some boats, like Candide, aren't able to pull forward enough into the slip because the jib and/or forward stay are stopped by the structure of the travel lift (see photographs here).  So, the yard workers will have to remove some standing rigging to bring the boat forward into the slip.  Not a big deal (unless the turnbuckles are frozen in place like they were on Candide the last time I had her bottom painted).  

Once the boat is properly in place, the travel lift will start to raise the straps and your boat will slowly rise out of the water.  It's truly amazing to see a 15-ton boat lifted some ten feet above the water!  It's also a bit frightening to think what might happen should one of those straps fail!  

While your boat is still in the hoist, yard workers will use a high-pressure hose to remove the barnacles and growth under the waterline.  They'll also use scrapers to remove barnacles from the propeller, through-hulls, and grounding plate.  

The travel lift will then start...traveling...with your boat.  The lift is on wheels (usually made from recycled wheels from large jetliners), and they'll drive your boat to the yard.  They'll put huge wooden blocks under the keel and position braces to hold the boat upright.  The straps will be removed, and the travel lift will go away.

Now your boat is "on the hard."  She's completely out of the water and is propped up on land.  Trust me when I tell you that she'll look a LOT bigger out of the water than she does while floating!  Being "on the hard" is not a good situation for liveaboards.  First, you'll have to enter and leave the boat using a ladder.  Try climbing a rickety 12-foot ladder with a case of beer sometime, and you'll soon discover why this is a problem.  Second, if you have the bottom job done during the summer months, you most likely won't be able to use your air conditioner as it likely needs a constant source of cool water to circulate through the system.  When I had Candide's bottom done last year, I rented a suite at an extended-stay hotel.  This mini-apartment, complete with kitchen and dining area, made my life a lot easier while my boat was being worked on!

Yard workers will now sand the bottom of your boat.  You'll notice that they'll be wearing "space suits" that cover them from head to foot.  They'll also be using an industrial face mask to block out the toxins from the old paint as they sand.  

Once the bottom is sanded, they'll begin to apply the paint with rollers.  Some marinas will only apply one coat of paint.  If you want an extra coat, it will cost you!  Some marinas apply two coats as standard.  It definitely pays to shop around when it's time for a bottom job!  Here are some questions to ask as you search for a marina to do your bottom job:

When the paint has dried enough to put the boat back in the water, the yard workers will return with the travel lift.  Again, the straps will be applied under your boat, and you'll hold your breath for the entire trip as the lift returns your boat to her natural habitat.  

So, how much does it cost to have Candide's bottom painted in Jacksonville, Florida?  Well, last year I paid just over $800 for the haul-out, two coats of paint, and a deck scrubbing.  In years past, I've paid the same amount for a single coat and no deck-scrubbing.  Again, it pays to shop around!  I suspect that some readers will want to know where I found this bargain.  If you're in the area and need a bottom job, I suggest you take your boat to Whitney's Marine in Orange Park (www.whitneysmarine.com).  Hey, tell them that I sent you!  Maybe they'll give me a discount when I need a bottom job next year!

Having said all that, I should tell you that it's possible to do your own bottom job.  No, you won't get to drive your boat around the parking lot with a travel lift, but you will be able to scrape the bottom, sand, and apply your own paint (as many coats as you like!).  The trick is that you'll have to find a "self-service" marina that will allow you to do this work yourself.  Simply call around to various marinas, and you'll eventually find one that will allow you to work on the boat yourself.  Keep in mind, though, that you'll be expected to follow all of the environmental regulations that the marina must follow.  You'll have to properly dispose of the barnacles and growth, sand (perhaps with equipment attached to a vacuum cleaner), and wear a "moon suit" and respirator.  Friends of mine who have done their own bottom jobs save about 40% of the cost that the yard would charge.  Personally, I'd rather pay someone else to do it.  My attitude will probably change when I quit my job, go sailing into the sunset, and find myself short on funds and long on time. 

One last thought about bottom jobs.  The U.S. government has passed a lot of environmental laws concerning the types of paint that can be used below the waterline (these laws do not apply to government-owned boats, of course).  I've heard from old sailors that paints available 20 years ago are much more effective than the "crap" (their words, not mine) applied today.  Some of the older salts, who have more time on their hands than I do, will sail to foreign countries (mostly the Bahamas or Mexico) to have their bottoms painted.  In countries with less stringent environmental regulations, paints are available that are not only provide a more effective barrier, but will last longer.  Under the law, it is perfectly legal for a boat owner to have a bottom job done in a foreign country and return to U.S. waters.  I'm sure that some of my tree-hugger readers will cry foul over this statement, but it's absolutely true.  Please don't spam me with the evils of cheating the system.  It's done all the time by other boat owners! 

I recently had a bottom job done on Candide, and I recorded the entire process with my camera.  Click here to see the pictures and read the commentary. 

Consequences of Laziness – If you don't have your bottom repainted once a year or so, your boat will slow down considerably as she moves through the water.  Recently, I let Candide go for two years without a bottom job (see pictures).  I moved to a new marina 11 miles from my old marina.  The trip would normally take just over two hours.  With the bottom in the condition it was in, this trip took five and a half hours!  If you don't want a slow boat, plan on getting a bottom job every 12 - 18 months.

Life Raft Certification

If you sail offshore, your boat should be equipped with a life raft.  Should your boat be attacked by a sperm whale, run into a half-submerged container that fell off a ship, spring a leak around a failed through-hull, etc., she may sink (don't laugh...all of these things have happened to modern-day pleasure cruisers).  If any of these should happen, well, you're in a world of hurt.  You'll need to have a backup plan if your primary vessel sinks to the bottom.  Therefore, most cruising boats carry an inflatable life raft.

Inflatable life rafts are generally stored in a plastic casing on the decks of the boat.  Candide's life raft fits into a box that's approximately 2' square.  Should it ever be needed, the crew simply throws the entire box into the ocean and... Poof!  The life raft inflates itself and provides a floating alternative to a sinking (or sunk) Candide.  

At least, that's the theory of what's supposed to happen.  The problem is that things tend to break down as the life raft ages...even while it's in a protective box.  The CO₂ cartridges that should cause the raft to go "Poof!" when it's thrown into the water may develop leaks.  The waterproof fabric that constitutes the raft's hull may become cracked or frayed over time.  Some life rafts are packed with food and water...which will eventually go bad.  

To avoid these problems, your life raft should be sent to the original manufacturer (or authorized dealer) to be re-certified once every other year or so.  They'll unpack your raft, inflate it, and check to make sure that all kinds of things are in proper working order and haven't expired.  Here are the things that one large life raft manufacturer checks whenever they're re-certifying a raft:

1. Perform visual inspection of valise, canister, hard pack and general condition.
2. Remove life raft from valise, canister, hard pack and unfold life raft.
3. Detach Inflation System and record the following information:
   1. Cylinder Serial Number
   2. Cylinder Weight
   3. Date of last cylinder Hydrostatic Test. (If past due or due prior to the next service due date, then Hydrostatic Testing must be performed)
   4. Firing head Serial Number
4. If cylinder is under or over the required weight then the cylinder must be recharged.
5. Perform inspection of Inflation System and components.
6. If Inflation System Components need to be replaced then the cylinder must be re-charged after required components have been replaced.
7. If Firing Head and Cylinder Head are over the five (5) year service life span, or will be prior to the next service due date, then the firing head and cylinder head must be rebuilt.
8. Inflate life raft using filtered dry air.
9. Detach Survival Equipment Package.
10. Inspect life raft attachments, (grasp lines, sea anchor line, etc.) for security of attachment.
11. Inspect stencils for condition and conspicuity.
12. Inspect Canopy for condition and function.
13. Perform Pressure Retention Tests for Buoyancy Tubes, Arch Tube and Floor.
14. Perform Pressure Relief Valve Test.
15. Perform Arch Tube Transfer Valve Test.
16. Verify Canopy lights for function and battery condition, (swollen Water Activated Batteries must be replaced).
17. Perform inspection of Survival Equipment Components:
    1. Verify expiration date of all items with a limited useful life, replace any items expired or that will expire before the next service due date.
    2. Inspect all Pyrotechnics for general condition, (assure flares are not leaking chemicals, nor crushed).
    3. Inspect all Batteries.
    4. Test Flashlights.
    5. Inspect Food Rations and Water Packs for leaks and general condition.
    6. Inspect First Aid Kit.
    7. Perform Service of PUR "06" Watermaker unit, if included, (service includes Re-certification and Biocide Treatment). Service is performed utilizing the WLR06BG Watermaker Test Unit.
18. Repack Survival Equipment Package including any customer supplied items.
19. Deflate Life Raft
20. Fold life raft per Service Manual procedures and data for that life raft model and configuration.
21. Place inside valise, canister, or hard pack.
22. Place in Compaction Unit to achieve final required pack height. 
23. Close and secure valise, canister, or hard pack.
24. Record the following information:
    1. Outgoing Dimensions
    2. Outgoing Weight
    3. Next Service Due Date
25. Affix serial-numbered Service Validation Certificate.
26. Ship life raft to customer.

As you can see, this is a fairly involved process!  It's not cheap, either!  You can expect to pay anywhere from $500 - $1000 to have your raft re-certified.

Consequences of Laziness – If you never have a professional check your life raft, then you can't possibly know that it will work, should you ever need it.  You will most definitely wish you had when your boat is sinking, your crew throws the life raft overboard, and it merely sinks to the bottom!  "Gosh," you'll tell your crew, "I should have had that raft checked.  I feel like such a dork!"  This will be followed by nervous laughter as your crew descends upon your person with clubs, knives, or whatever is at hand.

Repairing Leaks

Nearly every boat owner I've ever met has a horror story or two to tell about hunting down a leak and then repairing it.  When I first bought Candide, there was a huge area around a cabin light in the saloon that had completely rotted away.  It was truly amazing how many people would come aboard, stick their finger through the rotted wood, and proclaim, "Gee, you might want to get that fixed!"  Well, duh!

Fixing this leak and repairing the damage was a truly expensive project.  First, I needed to stop the leak.  It was pretty obvious where the water was entering the boat...it happened to be below a section of teak decking.  We pulled up this section of deck, and discovered that there was no bedding underneath!  The manufacturer had simply screwed down strips of teak directly onto the fiberglass without providing an appropriate water barrier!  One of those screws had penetrated the cabin top, and allowed water to leak in.  Since we had destroyed several of the teak planks when we pulled them up, I had to have an entirely new section of decking made from scratch.  When it was put back down, we used several tubes of 3M 5200 marine sealant as a proper bedding.  No way is water going to get through that section of deck now!  Cost for this little job?  About $700.  

After a couple of rain storms (which come fairly regularly in Florida), I was able to determine that the leak had been stopped.  Now it was time to fix the unsightly hole in the roof above my saloon table.  This involved removing 4' X 6' section of the wooden ceiling, using a router to match the fake "tongue in groove" appearance of the old section, cutting the piece to match (a real bitch, considering that there aren't any right angles on a boat), affixing the new piece to the ceiling, and painting the entire cabin interior.  Why paint the entire cabin?  Well, it would have been next to impossible to get the new piece of wood to match what was already in place.  So, I bit the bullet and hired a starving sailor to do the job.  Total cost?  About $500 (not including the paint job).  

Candide also has two hatches that leak.  Fortunately, the canvas covers that I had made for them are waterproof, so I don't have to worry about them leaking anymore.  

Currently, there is only one leak on board that causes me grief.  At the very peak of the vee-berth is the anchor locker.  For some reason, it leaks during heavy downpours.  Since I sleep in the vee-berth, my feet wind up getting wet.  This is a very unpleasant experience...to wake up in the middle of the night to discover that the bottom of the bed is soaking wet.  I've made one attempt at repairing the problem by removing the bowsprit, pulling up several sections of teak decking, and re-bedding them with 3M 5200 sealant.  Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem.  The next step will be to seal the area where the anchor chain and rode enter the boat.  I'm not sure how this will be accomplished, but I think about it quite a bit whenever I'm lying in my berth and it starts to rain.  

The problem with the leak in the vee-berth is that I don't know exactly where the water is entering the boat.  This is often the case for boat leaks.  Water may be entering the boat several feet from where the leak is evident below decks...and traveling along various nooks and crannies before dripping into the boat.  Trust me when I say that hunting for leaks can be a time-consuming and maddening proposition!  Nonetheless, if you don't want serious water damage below decks, it's in your best interest to find those leaks and stop them.

Consequences of Laziness – If you don't repair the leaks in your boat, you may sustain serious water damage below decks.  Consider the picture below.  It shows a 38' Hans Christian (same make and model as Candide...but a year newer) that had a leak in the vee-berth just like I do!  If I don't fix this problem soon, then my berth may eventually look like this one!

Lifeline Replacement

Lifelines run around the perimeter of the deck.  They are made from steel wires, and are designed to keep you on the boat while you're underway.  Some lifelines are coated with a plastic covering so that your skin doesn't come into contact with bare steal wires...which may cause nasty cuts.  The problem with the coating is that water may seep underneath and eventually cause the steal wires to rust.  This happened aboard Candide.  Not only was the plastic coating starting to peal away (and look like shit), but the steal cable underneath was clearly rusting in several places.  

So, I had all of the old lifelines removed and had new cables installed, sans plastic coating.  I personally haven't had an problems with the uncovered variety, but one of my crew (a 73 year-old, 2-time circumnavigator) raised holy hell when he first saw them.  "You'll cut yourself to ribbons on those damned things!  Why the hell didn't you get the ones with covers?!?!" he lamented.  Sure enough, when we tied up to the dock in Cuba last year, he nearly fell overboard and sliced his hands up pretty good on the lifelines.  My God!  The look that I got from that old man!  He wouldn't even say anything!  He just kept staring at his hands and glancing at the life lines while shaking his head.  I tell you what, it makes you feel like total crap when you have a geriatric on board who warned you about a potential problem and you're standing there watching him in pain.  Fortunately, cheap doctors are easy to find in Cuba.

Nonetheless, I'll be able to get a few extra years out of those lifelines because they don't have a plastic covering.  Plus, they look better!  And isn't that really what matters on board?  ;-)

Eventually, your lifelines may need to be replaced.  On Candide, this job cost about $850 to have professionally done.  If you get the bare wires, you may want to budget a little for trips to the hospital.  

Consequences of Laziness – One day, you may find yourself leaning against the lifelines.  If they're rusted and weak with age, you may find yourself in the water. 

Painting

A boat's interior paint is generally maintained simply for the sake of vanity.  Repainting your living space isn't going to enhance the boat's sailing ability, but it may make her a more attractive home.  When I bought Candide, I'm pretty sure that the interior had never been repainted.  In fifteen years, her paint became dull and covered with various marks that simply couldn't be removed.  I decided when I repaired some wood-rot in the cabin ceiling that I would have the interior of the boat completely repainted.  Everything was sanded down, and three coats of fresh eggshell white was applied.  She simply looks better down below!

Since I had started a massive painting project, I figured it would be good to continue.  So, I had all of the cabinets, closet space, areas under/behind the settees and berths also repainted.  Then, I had the bilges re-coated with a waterproof bilge paint.  

No matter what floor board is pulled up, or which cushion is removed from a seating area, you'll find a freshly-painted surface!  Pure vanity!  But that's the way I like it!  

Total cost for all this painting?  About $3,500.  I could have saved a lot of money by doing the work myself, but I was fortunate enough to find a starving sailor who spent a couple of months sanding and painting Candide's interior.

Consequences of Laziness – Absolutely nothing will happen if you allow your boat's interior paint to deteriorate over time.  Keep in mind, though, that YOU will be living in this environment.  Personally, I find that keeping Candide's interior visually pleasing helps make my liveaboard experience more enjoyable.

Please drop me a line at: robert@sleepingwithoars.com

© 2007 by Robert Doty